Bonjour!
I've been friends with the beautiful Samar since freshman year of high school (has it really been 7 years??). I remember sometimes waking up early before school just to bake cookies. I haven't really stopped baking since. I went to college on the premise of getting a bachelor's in biology and then going on to medical school. Halfway through I was lured over to enchantments of the kitchen again: the sound of whipping meringues, the smell of baking cake, the feel of kneading dough. I did end up getting my biology degree, but snagged a culinary degree to go along with it. After graduating, I worked in a few restaurants and learned a ton about pastry.
Everyone seems to be intimidated by the thought of making desserts worthy of a fine dining restaurant. I'm here to tell you there is nothing to be afraid of! With the right tools and information any baker, casual or avid, can make show-stopping, delicious desserts. A little indulgence never hurt anyone. So why don't you come over to the dark side? We have cookies.
The first dessert we'll tackle is the infamous chocolate soufflé! Notorious for being difficult and fussy, the soufflé has developed a rather undeserved reputation. The ingredients and techniques are actually very simple. It is composed of whipped egg whites folded into a base or puree that is then baked.
If you handle your ingredients with care, your results will be magnificent.There's nothing quite like watching a soufflé rise in the oven to a terrifying, teetering height. That moment you break open the top of your fresh soufflé allowing the steam to billow out is equally wonderful. And that texture! It is like eating a cloud. A delicious warm cloud of goodness.
The key to a succesful soufflé, as I've mentioned, is treating your ingredients with care. You must first mis en place all of the ingredients and tools. Mis en place is french for "set in place". Have all ingredients measured out, all equipment ready to go, and your oven set. Once you start actually making the soufflé, there's no going back!
I like to preheat my oven 40 minutes before I'm going to use it. This is because ovens fluctuate in temperature the first 40 minutes they are on. Separate your eggs when they are cold, then let them sit out for a couple of hours to reach room temperature. Room temperature egg whites whip up much better than cold ones. It is very important not to get any yolks into the whites when separating them! This will prevent them from whipping up properly.
When measuring out dry ingredients into volume cups, you must always stir them first! There's a huge difference in the amount of flour in a cup of densely packed flour than an airy cup. Stir your flour, then measure it.
Butter and sugar your ramekins. Greasing the ramekin and coating it in sugar helps a soufflé rise evenly and gives it a golden edge.
Sift the flour, a portion of the sugar, and cocoa together on to a parchment paper. This makes clean up easier.
Make the chocolate base. Start by bringing your milk and butter just to a boil. Then whisk in the sifted dry ingredients off the heat. Return to the heat and cook, whisking constantly, until it reaches a pudding like consistency. This only takes a few minutes. Whip in the egg yolks off the heat with a hand mixer.
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| Chocolate base before egg yolks are beaten in. Note the pudding-like consistency. |
While the base is cooling slightly, start whipping the egg whites using a hand mixer or or in a stand mixer. Make sure everything that comes in contact with the whites is spotless and free of any fat! When the whites are foamy, add the cream of tartar and 1 tbsp of sugar. When they develop soft peaks (peaks that are just starting to form, but melt back into themselves after a bit) begin adding the rest of the sugar gradually. Keep whipping until the meringue (whipped egg white and sugar mixture) holds medium peaks. The peak will stand straight up at first, then flop over slightly. The purpose of adding the sugar gradually vs. all at once is to keep the egg whites from deflating. Do not over whip the egg whites or they won't fold into the base correctly.
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| Meringue with medium peaks. |
Working fast, but carefully whisk in 1/3 of the egg whites into the chocolate base. This lightens the base enough to be able to fold in the remaining whites without deflating them.
Fold in the remaining egg whites with a spatula. My method for folding: cut through middle with the spatula, sweep under the batter and then fold over. Turn the bowl 90 degrees and repeat.
Do not over fold! Mix just until incorporated. A few streaks are fine.
Fill the ramekins with batter, then run a knife along the upper edge of the ramekins. This helps them rise straight.
Bake until puffed and golden. As soon as they come out of the oven you only have a few minutes to get them plated and served before they collapse. Sprinkle with confectioner's sugar and serve by themselves or with ice cream or Crème anglaise.
It's like a pillow of dreams. That you can eat.
Chocolate Soufflés
Adapted from Desserts by the Yard
2 tbsp unsalted butter, plus 1 tbsp melted, for ramekins
2/3 cup sugar, plus 2 tbsp for dusting ramekins
1/4 cup all-purpose flour.
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
3/4 cup milk
3 large eggs, separated, plus 4 large egg whites
1/8 tsp cream of tartar
Confectioner's sugar for dusting (optional)
- Place a rack in the lowest position of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F (218°C). Brush ten 4-ounce ramekins with the 1 tablespoon melted butter, using upward strokes for the sides. Dust with the 2 tablespoons sugar, turning the ramekins and tapping out any excess sugar that doesn't stick. Place on a baking sheet, and store them in the fridge.
- Make the soufflé base. Place a piece of parchment paper on your work surface. Sift together the flour, 1/4 cup of the sugar, and the cocoa powder onto the parchment.
- In a wide heavy saucepan, combine the milk and the 2 tablespoons of butter and bring just to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and quickly whisk in the sifted dry ingredients. Place back on the heat and cook, whisking, for 2 to 3 minutes, until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan and has a pudding-like consistency. Remove from the heat.
- Beat the egg yolks lightly in a small bowl to break them up. Beat into the cocoa mixture with a hand mixer. Set aside to cool slightly.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or in a large bowl with a clean hand mixer, beat the egg whites on low speed until they are foamy. Add the cream of tartar and 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Turn the mixer to medium speed and beat until soft peaks form. Slowly stream in the remaining sugar, a tablespoon at a time. Continue to beat until the egg whites reach the medium-peak stage (the peaks will stand up, then flop over).
- Using a whisk, fold in one third of the egg whites into the soufflé base. Fold in the rest of the whites with a rubber spatula, being careful not to over fold.
- Take ramekins out of refrigerator. Fill to just below the rim and slide a knife around the inside perimeter of the ramekins. Bake for 12-14 minutes, until the souffles are puffed. Do not open the oven doors before this. The center should remain pudding-like. Dust with confectioners sugar, if using, and serve immediately.
Bon appétit!
-Rima
